Tantris

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Johann-Fichte-Straße 7, 80805 Munich, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Benjamin Chmura
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Bar | Elegant | Exceptional setting

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Let's put aside everything that makes up the house beyond its kitchen. First of all, its retrograde architecture, celebrated not only by fans of brutalism. Then the stories of charismatic chefs, flamboyant hostesses and a family of owners who are positive across generations, which are inseparably interwoven with the orange carpet ceiling. And finally, the sometimes mythologically exaggerated wine list, whose legendary status should be taken into account – in every respect. Let's try Germany's largest immersive gourmet theatre and concentrate on the food: the dashing advertisement with a many-throated "Oui!" sounds from the kitchen, the service chats confidently, at home in all worlds. Because legend here, atmosphere there – it wouldn't be possible without a cuisine like Benjamin Chmura's, which already visually radiates an admirably natural elegance. In the meantime, she can fall back on a certain repertoire: A few of the wafer-thin baked aperitif miniatures, for example, we constantly encounter on every visit, just as her sometimes challenging eatability remains a running gag in the kitchen. Which leads us to Chmura's current signature move, the recurring use of crispy elements as – in the truest sense of the word – a common thread in the menu. In the second opening classic, it shows itself as a Jerusalem artichoke speculoos chip with the duck liver terrine. The service didn't seem to be quite sure whether the last cherries or the first figs were stuck between the layers of fatty liver, and it was also not clear in terms of taste. A course of tomatoes from Peter Kunze, served on three plates, turned out to be aromatically clearer: jellied consommé with tomato granité and watermelon, a pickled, aromatically wonderfully intense tomato segment "Gelbe Helene" with olive tapenade and kumquats as well as a piece of Roma tomato with anise on a tender puff pastry onion tart. We continued to crunch our way through the menu, from the taco-like baked cornmeal galette with crab and finger limes to the pain feuilleté with lamb (marinated in lassi for two days) to the Boskop apple tart with muscovado ice cream reconstructed as foliage – all in all, a self-confident, highly independent interpretation of classic French influence that we liked.