Tantris DNA

Rating: 18
Author: Gault&Millau

Johann-Fichte-Straße 7, 80805 Munich, Germany

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

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Location: Munich
Chef: Benjamin Chmura
Cooking: French | Seafood | Vegetarian
Services: Access for people with disabilities, Electric charging station, Private Parking, Terrace
Style: Bar, Casual, Elegant, Exceptional setting, With family, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

18/20

Prestige Restaurant

"You have arrived in classic French cuisine," with these noble words the service hands over the menu after a first kitchen greeting. And arriving, that remains a leitmotif. If you prefer to eat à la carte here, you should be in the mood for a rosy shimmering portion of Do you remember? - ideally with a final landing at the house bar. Instead, the DNA, cleverly enlarged with mirrors and terrace view, transports its guests to the look and feel of the Tantris birth years: disco look, dancing jazz singing, the swinging service rolls the carving cart and sometimes amuses the eyes. In culinary terms, it has been up to Benjamin Chmura since 2023 to find a light-footed balance between the epochal styles. This leads to purist gems such as a picture-book layered terrine made of duck liver and winter truffles or an airy, juicy brioche perdue, accompanied by pots full of whipped cream and muscovado ice cream. In contrast to this on the last visit was the grilled brill: a reasonably priced, i.e. quite demanding portion, whose tarragon sauce showed mainly acidity from lemons and capers and which, in addition to the announced peas and asparagus, also had to accommodate lardo, fèves, pickled onion rings, pasta bags and two wild garlic leaves – powerful, baroque, but also a bit arbitrary, we found that. In year three, Benjamin Chmura still likes to refer to the "Maison" as having been at the beginning of its development. We hope that the DNA concept will soon reach those for whom the house is primarily responsible for the menus next door.