Traube Blansingen

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Alemannenstraße 30, 79588 Efringen-Kirchen, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Brian Wawryk
Cooking: Gastronomic | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Casual | Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic

Gault&Millau's review 2025

The Traube in Blansingen, a suburb of the winegrowing community of Efringen-Kirchen, is something like the incarnation of the perfect country inn. Anyone who stops here, for example after a visit to the legendary Ziereisen winery, will find an unpretentious idyll: a parlour in the simple house from 1811 with old wood and clear furniture, a beautiful garden, bare wooden tables, a tiled stove and lots of preserving jars with fermented and otherwise preserved ingredients. The story, on the other hand, began in Scotland, where hostess Daniela Hasse and chef Brian Wawryk met and fell in love. Together they then moved through top restaurants in Norway and northern Germany to Markgräflerland. Here, with the historic inn in the middle of the rich nature of southern Baden, they found the perfect environment for their radically regional cuisine, which is based on earth, air, water and fire in the menu. Six large courses and small dishes before and after change depending on the market situation and are worth a trip every time. Because Wawryk uses his technical and artisanal expertise as skilfully as carefully to tease out intense aromas from what the surrounding fields and forests have to offer, to refine them and yet ultimately to trace them back to their origin. The menu only lists the ingredients and the preparation methods (for example, "celery, egg and ham, smoked and steamed" or "sweet potato, cranberry and chocolate, caramelized and frozen"). From this, he conjures up taste explosions and small plate works of art: highly developed kitchen technology meets the best products and down-to-earthness in the truest sense of the word - and the jumelage of both is very close to the perfect rural enjoyment experience.