Waldhotel Sonnora

Rating: 19
Author: Gault&Millau

Auf'm Eichelfeld 1, 54518 Dreis, Germany

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Clemens Rambichler
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | International | Local | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Private Parking | Private Room | Terrace
Style: Elegant | Romantic | With family

Gault&Millau's review 2025

It's hard to believe what an oasis of pleasure is hidden in the small Moselle town of Wittlich-Dreis in a forest hotel that looks rather traditional from the outside - a true "hidden gem", whose reputation has long prevented it from being an insider tip. Long waiting lists and an almost always fully booked house prove Clemens Rambichler right that you can also counter the culinary zeitgeist and celebrate contemporary grande cuisine. And how! The Rambichlers took over the house from Helmut Thieltges, who died much too early, and invested massively in a contemporary stage for his kitchen - this is also courageous and defies the popular idea that no money can be made with top gastronomy. Now that Marco Franzelin, coming from Caminada, is also a top sommelier on board, the team is complete. Everyone is motivated to the tips of their hair to offer the guest a unique experience and intrinsically have fun hosting - this is exactly what is transferred to the guest: rarely have we experienced such a happily vibrating guest room. Here you can celebrate, indulge and enjoy, a perfect incarnation of quiet luxury, because that's what the Waldhotel can, can and wants to be! Generosity is another motive - the kitchen burns off a firework of greetings right from the start, which in many places passed for the actual menu: a tartlet of shrimp rose with coriander, lime and horseradish, another with a mushroom variation, the perfectly aged oyster with cucumber ice cream and caviar form Part 1 of the "Overture". This is followed by crab with avocado and wasabi, a perfect staging of "grilled vegetables" and a light Japanese egg custard with Eifel brown trout, all magnificently devised and staged. Before you inhale the sensational Thieltges cake (rösti – beef tartare – caviar) with every bite, Rambichler serves Belgian crayfish and goose liver with raw marinated plum and vinaigrette of fresh peas, chives, lime and walnut oil as an alternative or additional Belgian crayfish and vinaigrette of fresh peas, chives, lime and walnut oil – this exciting accord alone could fill pages – be that as it may, it tastes sensational, has plasticity and seduces the senses. Langoustine with braised veal cheek, orange gremolata and Madagascar vanilla leads pointedly to one of the best lobster dishes of all time. Grilled Breton lobster with watermelon and Marzano tomatoes and Pimentón de la Vera Espuma is as harmonious and perfect as if you were sitting in the front garden of heaven. Turbot from the Vendée follows and in the main course the best Eifel saddle of venison with cherries, hazelnuts and a pepper-cocoa jus to kneel down! The patisserie follows on the same level and also serves the best ingredients (Indian mango, fantastic raspberries "Elida Selection 1" or peach from Lombardy). Clemens Rambichler can not only cook sensationally, but also creates an unagitated land of milk and honey with his entire team - in the Eifel, in a small forest hotel. Thank you!