Wein- und Tafelhaus

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Moselpromenade 4, 54349 Trittenheim, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Alexander Oos
Cooking: European | French | Gastronomic | Local
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Casual | Elegant | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Let's start with the advance praise. The view of the famous "Trittenheimer Apotheke" vineyard is at least as engaging as the charming warmth of Daniela Oos, a genuine Austrian, who confidently manages the extremely friendly young service of the country-style restaurant. Meanwhile, her husband stands at the stove and tries to bring the good first impression to the plates. In terms of craftsmanship, this is no problem, Alexander is a true master at this. What we are missing a bit here and there are the brilliant ideas that raise excellent products in first-class preparation above the expected. Gazpacho in a cup, pea tartlet with pea cream and pickled char on puffed rice with cucumber are nice greetings from the kitchen, as is goat's cream cheese with balsamic vinegar. Well done, no question, but a bit uninspired for a restaurant of this class. Sorbet and broth from citrus fruits to lobster play in a completely different league. Add a little fennel and the tender lobster meat, even as a tartare on the plate, gets an unexpected aromatic swing between vegetables and citrus fruit. Classic the fried monkfish, served with an equally classic Mediterranean vegetable terrine, aubergine cream and a crustacean foam. The main course is saddle of venison, impeccably cooked to perfection, served with apricots, braised chicory in ginger and orange butter, spiced yoghurt and small sponges made from cashew nuts. A bit much of a good thing, which does not make it easy to find an aromatic red thread. For dessert, the cherry takes centre stage, as a parfait, granité with cherry foam, tartlets, plus chocolate sand and white chocolate foam. When it comes to wine, you should stick to the Moselle plants or, of course on the recommendation of Daniela Oos, make a vinological detour to Austria.