Yoshi by Nagaya

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Kreuzstraße 17, 40210 Dusseldorf, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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Location: Düsseldorf
Chef: Yoshizumi Nagaya
Cooking: Gastronomic | Japanese
Services: Private Room
Style: Elegant, Romantic, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

14/20

Chef's Restaurant

The hand swings outwards, light shaking movements follow before the rice for the sushi plates is formed with fingers and in the palm of the hand. Guests who sit conveniently opposite the counter may be lucky enough to watch Yoshizumi Nagaya making the sushi, while next to him an employee is busy with the elaborate decoration of appetizer presentations. Precision, devotion, deepening – the dishes reflect the effort that can be seen. There is more to it than that, as you can see in the soy sauce refined with vegetables in the house ("low in salt!", according to the employee), the jus with beef in the main course or even the corn soup in an appetizer. The starter, the plate with omelette, fried lotus root or shrimp balls, which is reminiscent of a jungle thanks to its abundant foliage, can be understood as the actual main course, as much variety and finesse as it shows. Dramaturgically, Nagaya almost shifts down a gear with his sushi, which simply lives from the quality of fish – and Nagaya's rice-shaping skills. You don't take the little bit of circus with a smoking cast iron plate under the beef for the main course against him, it tastes good too. This also applies to the scraped ice, which doesn't come from the block of ice like the kakigori, but is scraped out of a tub, but with so much taste of coconut, that's beside the point. The wine list also offers numerous high-quality bottles at self-confident prices. Of course, the sake selection is also impressive, but asking for the respective price could possibly avoid surprises in the bill. That would be unfortunate in view of the great experience that Nagaya gives you in his Yoshi.