Zeik

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

Sierichstraße 112, 22299 Hamburg, Germany

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

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Location: Hamburg
Chef: Maurizio Oster
Cooking: Gastronomic | German | Vegetarian
Services: Terrace
Style: Casual, Elegant, Romantic, With family, With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

14/20

Chef's Restaurant

At Zeik, you can eat Hamburg food – in a modern and pleasant way. In Winterhude, away from the scene, Maurizio Oster from Hamburg cooks a surprisingly strong and aromatic gourmet menu with local ingredients (pike-perch, eel, kale or radicchio, black bread, cress) in his concentrated, purist restaurant, which is furnished with warm wooden tables – not least with the help of classic kitchen techniques such as fermentation, which have become modern again. Chef Maurizio Oster opens with an onion variation that precisely explores the complexity of this primeval vegetable. A clear onion essence convinces with subtle depth, while a tartlet with red onion compote skilfully balances sweetness and acidity. Also surprising is a doughnut with a black onion filling, whose tart spiciness contrasts excitingly with the fluffy texture. This is followed by a grilled scallop on Jerusalem artichoke ragout. Short, extreme heat gives it a mild, nutty, smoky note that complements harmoniously with the slightly sweet acidity of the pear jelly. In general, a high acid content is perhaps the most noticeable common thread in the dishes from Oster's kitchen, and that fits quite well with the tart harbor wind and the claim to stay on the North German carpet. The service is attentive and relaxed, with a personal touch, as is the wine accompaniment or the very successful non-alcoholic options.