Zirbelstube

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

Gauchstraße 23, 79098 Freiburg, Germany

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

1 PHOTOS

Chef: Sven Usinger
Cooking: European | Gastronomic | Vegan | Vegetarian
Services: Accommodation | Electric charging station | Private Parking | Private Room
Style: Bar | With family | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

In a grand hotel like the Colombi in Freiburg, guests can expect a special restaurant. This is exactly what the Zirbelstube offers; the setting is appealing, the service is accommodating, the cuisine is grande classe. Guests are warmly welcomed into the dignified, elegant restaurant. The service is nimble and distinguished. Amuse-bouches, as the name suggests, have the task of making the connoisseurs happy, the gently cooked Alsatian char, accompanied by pickled vegetables and char caviar, fulfils this task according to the motto: The appetite comes with the meal. With this, the two chefs Henrik Weiser & Sven Usinger open the evening in a fine and delicious way. The tartare of the Black Forest heifer follows, delicately seasoned, with aromatic imperial caviar and creamy egg yolk classically on a roasted, very lushly sliced brioche. A flamed langostino meets the expectations of a firm but tender consistency to a great extent. Carried by its bisque, it melts in your mouth. This is also the case with cod, which is particularly tenderly smoked and accompanied by a creamy sorrel sauce. The tension between elegance and classicism in their preparation of all fish dishes is extremely appealing. In the case of lamb and veal, a sauté after cooking sous vide could have given the tasty roasted aroma accent that the main courses deserve. Finally, the playful dessert delights. Rhubarb is interpreted as a sorbet, with vanilla and sour cream, colorfully decorated as if it came from Alice Wonderland. Both the wine recommendations and the offer of the wine list could do with more structure and a greater variety of the wineries and wine-growing regions offered. Vegetarian and vegan menus on request.